DRY OR DEHYDRATED SKIN AND OILY SKIN
First, it's important to note the difference between Dry skin and Dehydrated skin. Yup, there's a difference!:
Dry Skin: lacks oil
Dehydrated Skin: lacks water
Oily skin: produces excess oil
Everyone needs a good balance of oil (moisture) and water (hydration) in their skin for that optimal smooth, cushy and glowy complexion.
Dry Skin: Possible Causes (including but not limited to)
- Genetics: Dry skin can be inherited (unlike dehydrated skin)
- Age/Hormones: Hydration retention becomes more challenging with time. Additionally, hormonal changes and the decrease in Estrogen cause the skin to lose water.
- Medications: allergy medication, some antibiotics, acne meds, and many other medications can exacerbate dry skin
- Lifestyle: excessive alcohol consumption, excessive caffeine, frequent air travel
- Over drying skin care products (especially if not countering them with the proper moisturizer)
- Environment: excessive air conditioning, heaters. Dry and/or cold/and or hot climate
- Severe restrictive dieting
- Washing with hot water. WASH WITH COLD WATER ONLY.
Oily Skin: Possible Causes (including but not limited to)
- Heavy foundations/cosmetics: This is a big one. I often see women use super heavy foundation and this is counter productive. And more often than not, isn't being thoroughly removed at night, thus cause even more of an issue. My goal is to get you comfortable with a good BB cream, or better yet...no make up!
- Harsh stripping skin care products:
**TIP*** An example of overly stripped dehydrated (loss of water) skin is after cleansing your skin in the morning, it's super oily by mid day. This is almost always a sign that you are using something too harsh on your skin and/or not replenishing the lipid barrier with the right moisturizer.
- Certain medications. Yes, I know it takes time, but you must read that novel that comes with your pharmaceuticals so that you fully understand the potential side effects.
- Severe restrictive dieting: by way of overdrying the skin, thereby causing an increase in oil production, yet simultaneously dehydrating (loss of water) the skin. **Severe training and weight/muscle building can also cause a major shift in your hormone levels. Thus potentially causing more clogged pores, flaky unbalanced skin, increased facial hair, and a change in periods for women.**
- Washing with hot water. This is very dehydrating and causes inflammation. WASH WITH COLD WATER ONLY.
Ideal Skin Care Protocol
1. First cleanse to completely remove make up, sunscreen, dirt, oil and pollution. COLD WATER ONLY.
2. 2nd cleanse with appropriate gentle cleanser. COLD WATER ONLY.
3. Spray face (apply with cotton pad) with an alcohol free toner (I carry a wonderful one from Le Mieux that contains hydrating ingredients!) The spray toner does 2 different things: allows for better absorption of the products that follow and allows you to use less product. **WITH THE EXCEPTION OF RETINOL, ALWAYS APPLY YOUR SERUMS AND MOISTURIZERS TO SLIGHTLY DAMP SKIN FOR BETTER ABSORPTION.**
4. Apply treatment serum (if applicable)
5. Moisturize immediately! Why? Because after you have cleansed and your skin hits that dry air in your house, it immediately begins to lose water (hydration) You must apply your serums and moisturizing immediately after your cleanse/spray.
1. Light gentle cleanse
2. Serum (if applicable)
Weekly: Use an appropriate exfoliator 2-3 times per week for proper cell turnover
TIP! Also, I highly recommend getting a humidifier for your bedroom, my fave brand is this one. And having some sort of water softener and or filtration system in your home. If that's not in the budget, there are some great faucet and shower head attachment type filtrations systems. We have hard water here in Vegas. You would be surprised how amazing your hair and skin feels when you have a softener and filtration system!
Myth vs Fact
Myth: I think I have oily AND dry skin.
Fact: Oily skin produces excess oil. Dry skin doesn't produce enough oil. Complete opposites. So, you can be oily and dehydrated, but not oily and dry.
Myth: Drinking enough water will give my skin all the hydration it needs.
Fact: Your skin is actually the last thing that will benefit from your water intake. Yes, proper water intake is super important for a multitude of other internal health reasons. But it will not drastically change the hydration of your skin. How you treat the skin on the outside will greatly affect its condition as well as your internal diet.
Myth: Since I have oily skin, I never need to use a moisturizer.
Fact: If you completely deplete your skin of all oil (moisture), then you leave your skin vulnerable to water (hydration) loss. What happens then? Tight, flaky dull skin. It's all about finding the right moisturizer.
Myth: Since I have oily skin, I'm going to wash several times a day to keep it clean.
Fact: Same as I stated above, if you completely deplete your lipid barrier, your skin will experience water (hydration) loss, thus causing other problems like tight and flaky skin, thereby enhancing fine lines, pores, and wrinkles. Generally speaking, twice per day (double cleanse PM, cleanse AM) is sufficient. Over stripping the outer layer of the skin will also result in a layer of super dead dry skin, thus trapping oil and bacteria, then resulting in clogged pores and breakouts. It's called the Rebound Effect, and it isn't good.
Myth: Since I have dry skin, I don't cleanse very often because it makes me feel tight and dry.
Fact: No matter your skin type, you absolutely must cleanse morning and night. Especially at night. It's imperative to get the filth from pollution, touching your face, make up, sunscreen, etc OFF OF YOUR FACE! Otherwise, you're just marinating in all of that, all night. Nope, not good. Also, after cleansing, you need to apply your moisturizer (or serum if you're using one) within 60 SECONDS of your cleanse. Why? Because the second your freshly cleansed skin hits that dry air in your home, the hydration loss (water) begins. The idea is to prevent hydration loss so you gotta get that protective barrier back on as soon as possible. This is how you begin to bring back balance to the skin.
Helpful Skin Foods/Supplements (benefits all skin types)
- Evening Primrose
- Tocotrienols (a superior form of vitamin E, my personal fave is this)
- Vitamin D
- Foods high in omega 3's
- Antioxidant rich foods
What can your Aesthetcian do?
Regular facials with proper and professional grade exfoliation (peels, enzymes, devices etc) can drastically improve dry, dehydrated, or oily skin. I'll clear away the dry flaky area, thereby increasing the absorption and efficacy of your skin care products. Throughout your treatment, we'll discuss homecare changes as well. Check out this page for details of my treatments.
DISCLAIMER: Obviously, I'm not a Doctor. Nothing stated here or anywhere on my site is meant to override any physicians care or advice. Nor am I trying to prescribe or diagnose. I'm simply supplying you with helpful info on your skin care journey while also giving you a good jumping off point for your own research. As always, do what feels right for you, and be sure to consult your physician to prevent interactions with any of your current medications or treatments ❤️